How to tile around a window

Inspired by the Wickes tiling guide. This article draws on “How to Tile Around a Window” from the Wickes YouTube channel. It tackles one of the trickiest parts of any bathroom or kitchen tiling project — the window reveal — and breaks it down clearly, including where to start your tile layout relative to the window opening. Worth watching in full before you begin.

1. Plan the tile layout around the window first

The window is the focal point of the wall, so tile joints should frame it symmetrically where possible. Hold a batten horizontally across the centre of the window and dry-lay tiles along it to find the best starting point. Aim for tiles of equal width on each side of the window.

Avoid narrow slivers of tile at the edges. If you end up with less than half a tile width at either side, shift your layout by half a tile and start again.

2. Mark your datum lines

Use a spirit level to draw a horizontal guide line across the wall at one tile height above your skirting or bath edge. This is your starting line. Then mark a vertical centre line through the middle of the window opening.

Fix a timber batten along your horizontal line to support the first row of tiles while the adhesive sets. Remove it once the tiles above are firm enough to hold independently.

3. Tile the main wall up to the window

Tile the main wall surface first, stopping at the edges of the window reveal. Use a notched trowel to apply adhesive, press each tile firmly, and use plastic spacers to keep joints consistent. Work from the centre outward and check frequently with a spirit level.

Cut the tiles that meet the window frame edge cleanly. A wet tile saw gives the cleanest results for straight cuts. Score-and-snap cutters work for straightforward lines but struggle with thicker or larger format tiles.

4. Tile the window sill first

If there is a sill, tile it next before the reveals. The sill tiles should overhang the reveal tiles slightly so they form a drip edge — this stops water tracking back along the underside and into the wall. Apply adhesive, press firmly, and check the tiles are level across the sill.

Use a half-tile or full tile on the sill if it fits; avoid cutting sill tiles to a tiny sliver. If the sill is shallow, two cuts of tile either side of a central full tile often look cleanest.

5. Tile the side reveals

Cut tiles to the depth of the reveal. The face of each reveal tile should sit flush with the surface of the main wall tiles. Fit these tiles with the cut edge facing into the window frame, and the factory edge facing outward where it will be visible.

Hold each reveal tile in place with masking tape while the adhesive grabs if you cannot support it from below. Grout lines in the reveal should line up with those on the main wall — this continuity is what makes the finished job look professional.

6. Fit tile trim or edge profile

Where the reveal tiles meet the window frame, use a stainless steel or chrome edge trim to cover the cut tile edges. Press the trim into the adhesive bed before the tile, then slide the tile up against it. The trim gives a clean finish and protects the raw edge of the tile from chipping.

Aluminium, chrome and brushed stainless profiles are all widely available and straightforward to cut with a junior hacksaw. Match the trim to your taps or fittings if you can — it makes the overall finish look considered.

7. Grout all the joints

Once all tiles are set and adhesive is fully cured (at least 24 hours), mix grout to a smooth paste and press it into every joint with a grout float. Work in small sections and wipe excess off the tile face with a damp sponge before it hardens.

Pay particular attention to the corners where the reveal meets the main wall. Fill these with a flexible silicone sealant rather than rigid grout — movement between the two planes will crack grout over time, but silicone accommodates it.

8. Seal and finish

Run a bead of matching silicone sealant around the window frame where it meets the tile, and along the bottom of the reveal where it joins the sill. Smooth it with a wetted finger or silicone tool and leave for 24 hours before the area gets wet.

Wipe the finished tiles with a dry cloth to buff off any grout haze. Step back. If you planned the layout properly at the start, it should look like it was always meant to be exactly like that.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the window reveal is complex — bay windows, curved sills, or badly out-of-plumb frames all make tiling significantly harder. Likewise if you need a full bathroom retile rather than a single wall, getting a professional in for the tricky spots saves a lot of regret later.