How to grout tiles

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This walk-through is based on the popular "How To Grout Tiles" video from Tommy's Trade Secrets, a well-established UK trade tutorial channel. The video does a good job of showing the float technique and the timing for cleaning — both of which trip up a lot of first-timers.

1. Wait for the adhesive to cure fully before grouting

Most tile adhesives need at least 24 hours to cure before the grout goes on. Check the adhesive packaging for the exact time. Grouting too soon can push tiles out of alignment, and the joint may not hold well if the adhesive beneath is still soft.

Remove all tile spacers before grouting. Some plastic spacers are designed to stay in, but most should come out — check the packet. A thin flat tool or a bradawl works well for lifting them without scratching the tile edges.

2. Mix the grout to the right consistency

Grout powder mixed with water should end up the consistency of smooth peanut butter — thick enough to hold its shape when scooped, but workable enough to push into narrow joints. Too wet and it slumps out of the joints; too stiff and it is difficult to work and more likely to crack.

Mix a small batch at a time rather than the whole bag. Grout starts to stiffen within around 30 minutes, so working with less means you are not racing against it. Pre-mixed grout in a tub is also widely available and avoids the mixing stage altogether.

3. Work in manageable sections

Apply grout to an area of roughly one square metre at a time, especially on your first attempt. Working in sections means the grout stays fresh and workable, and you can clean each area properly before it starts to harden on the tile faces.

Keep a bucket of clean water and a sponge close by. You will need both throughout the job, and running to refill them across the other side of the room gets old quickly.

4. Press grout firmly into the joints with a rubber float

Hold the grout float at roughly 45 degrees to the tiles and push the grout across the joints diagonally. Working at an angle fills the joints more efficiently and reduces the amount of grout sitting on the tile face. Push firmly — voids and air pockets in the joints look poor once the grout has dried.

Once a section is covered, go back over it with the float held at a steeper angle to scrape off the bulk of the excess grout from the tile faces. The more you remove at this stage, the less cleaning you will need to do later.

5. Wipe the tile faces before the grout starts to set

Using a damp (not soaking) sponge, wipe the tile faces in a circular motion to clean off the grout film. Rinse the sponge frequently in clean water. If the water turns grey quickly, change it. Dirty water just moves grout around rather than removing it.

Do not press so hard that you pull grout out of the joints. Light, even wiping is all that is needed at this stage. The joints will look slightly rough and uneven at first, which is normal — they settle and tighten as the grout cures.

6. Shape and finish the joints

While the grout is still slightly soft, run a grout finisher, a rounded stick, or even a gloved finger along each joint to create a slight concave profile. This looks neat and actually helps shed water on wall tiles, which matters in kitchens and bathrooms.

Some people use the rounded handle of an old toothbrush or a purpose-made jointing tool. Either works well. The key is to do it before the grout fully hardens — once it sets, shaping becomes much harder.

7. Polish off the grout haze once it has dried

Leave the tiles for a few hours after cleaning, then come back with a dry, soft cloth and buff off any remaining grout haze from the tile faces. This stage makes a noticeable difference to the finished look. Polished porcelain and glazed ceramic tiles clean up easily; unglazed or textured tiles take more work.

In wet areas like showers and bath surrounds, run a bead of sanitary silicone rather than grout along the bottom edge where the tiles meet the tray or bath rim. Grout cracks here over time because those joints flex slightly. Silicone moves with them.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the tiles are loose, if the old grout is heavily stained or crumbling across a large area, or if the job involves re-grouting a shower where silicone is needed as well. The Sandwich Handyman can help with tiling, regrouting, silicone sealing, and small bathroom repairs in Sandwich and across East Kent.