How to remove wall tiles

Inspired by the Skill Builder tile removal guide. This walk-through draws on the popular UK video "Removing Tiles From Plasterboard Walls With This Secret Tool" from the Skill Builder channel - Roger Bisby's long-running UK building and trade series. The video is particularly good on how to tackle plasterboard without punching holes straight through it, which is the part most people get wrong.

1. Find out what's behind the tiles

Knock gently in a few places. A solid thud suggests sand-and-cement render or thick plaster on a brick or block wall - the most forgiving surface to tile off. A hollow sound means plasterboard, which needs a different and more careful approach entirely.

Older houses in Kent often have tiles over a sand-and-cement background. Newer bathrooms and kitchens are more likely to have plasterboard or tile backer board. Knowing which you're dealing with saves a lot of unnecessary damage.

2. Protect the area and isolate any services

Lay dust sheets on the floor and in the bath or shower tray if applicable. Broken tiles have sharp edges, and grout dust gets everywhere. Tape plastic sheeting over any extractor fans, and switch off the electricity to the room at the fuse board before you start - particularly important if there are sockets, switches, or a boiler nearby.

Don't assume you know where the pipes are. Probe or use a detector before wielding a chisel anywhere near plumbing.

3. Start at a loose tile or a corner

Look for a tile that's already cracked, chipped at the edge, or has a hollow sound when tapped. That's your starting point. Grout lines are also good entry points - get the tip of a bolster chisel into a joint first, rather than going straight at the tile face.

If you can't find a loose tile, use a grout rake or multi-tool to cut out the grout around one tile to create a bit of working space.

4. Solid plaster or render walls: chisel and hammer

On solid walls, work the bolster chisel in low behind the tile at a shallow angle and lever gently. The aim is to cut through the adhesive rather than the plaster. Short, controlled blows with a club hammer rather than hefty swings - patience gets better results than force.

Expect some plaster damage even with careful work. Patches can be made good afterwards with a bonding coat.

5. Plasterboard walls: use a multi-tool or oscillating cutter

This is the bit most people don't know. Hammering chisel into plasterboard shatters it. Instead, use an oscillating multi-tool with a scraper or plunge-cut blade to cut through the tile adhesive between the tile and the board. Patience here pays off - the plasterboard may still be usable if you're careful.

Alternatively, if the plasterboard is already marked for replacement, you can remove tiles along with a section of board by cutting away a full bay between studs and replacing it fresh. Often quicker and less aggravating than trying to save it.

6. Remove old adhesive from the wall

Old tile adhesive left on the wall makes a poor base for new tiles. Use a wide scraper or bolster chisel to knock back any lumps. A floor-mounted SDS drill with a chisel attachment speeds this up on solid walls. The surface doesn't need to be perfect, but lumps bigger than a few millimetres will cause problems when relaying.

7. Assess the wall and make good

Once tiles and adhesive are off, check what you're left with. Solid walls with missing plaster patches can be filled with bonding plaster or tile adhesive if the area is small. Badly damaged plasterboard sections should be replaced rather than bodged over. Fit tile backer board if the area will be wet again - it handles moisture far better than standard plasterboard.

When to call a handyman

If the wall is heavily damaged, services are close to the work area, or you're not sure what's behind the tiles - call Richard first. Wall tile removal is one of those jobs that expands quickly if the prep isn't right, and it's much easier to get the substrate sorted properly before retiling than to discover the problem halfway through.