How to cut tiles

Inspired by Topps Tiles. This guide draws on the tutorial "How to cut tiles" from Topps Tiles, the UK's leading tiling specialist with over 300 stores nationwide. Their step-by-step coverage of the different tools for different cuts is a solid reference before you buy or hire anything.

1. Measure and mark the tile

Hold the tile in position against the surface you're tiling and mark the cut line directly onto the tile face using a pencil or tile marker. For a cut that has to fit around an obstacle, make a card template first, transfer the shape to the tile, and cut to the line.

Allow for the grout joint when measuring. The gap between tiles isn't just for appearance - it accommodates slight movement and variation in the wall or floor. Forget to account for it and your cut tile will be a fraction short when the grout is in.

2. Score and snap straight cuts on ceramic tiles

A manual tile cutter handles most straight cuts on ceramic wall and floor tiles quickly and cleanly. Place the tile on the cutter, align the wheel with your marked line, press firmly, and draw the wheel across the tile face in one smooth stroke. You only score once - going back over the line dulls the wheel and weakens the cut.

Once scored, press down on the breaker bar or use the feet either side of the cut line. The tile should snap cleanly along the score. If it shatters or breaks off-line, the score probably wasn't firm enough or the wheel is worn.

Manual cutters work well on ceramic. For porcelain, particularly larger format tiles, you typically need more than hand pressure - a wet saw or an electric rail cutter is a better choice.

3. Use a wet saw for porcelain and large format tiles

Porcelain is dense and hard. Trying to score-and-snap it with a manual cutter often ends in a ragged break or a cracked tile. A wet saw (also called a tile saw or water-cooled diamond disc cutter) gives clean, controlled cuts with much less risk of breakage.

The water continuously cools the blade and keeps dust down. Keep the feed rate steady - pushing the tile too fast causes chipping on the exit edge. Hire a wet saw from a tool hire shop for a day if you're not doing enough tiling to justify buying one.

Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when using a wet saw. The water reduces airborne dust significantly, but it doesn't eliminate it entirely - tile dust is unpleasant to inhale.

4. Cut L-shapes and notches

An L-shaped cut around a door frame or window reveal is basically two straight cuts: make one cut most of the way across the tile, then turn the tile and make the second cut to meet the first corner. On a wet saw this is straightforward. With a manual cutter, you can score both lines but you'll usually need an angle grinder with a diamond disc to finish the internal corner cleanly.

Alternatively, a multi-tool with a diamond-tipped blade cuts notches neatly and with good control on both ceramic and porcelain.

5. Use tile nippers for curved cuts

Curved cuts - around a toilet waste pipe, a basin pedestal, or a rounded floor gully - need a different approach. Mark the curve on the tile face, then use tile nippers to nibble away small pieces from the waste side of the line, working gradually toward it.

Go steady. Nippers are surprisingly effective but they crack rather than cut, and grabbing too big a piece at once can break the tile along the grain. Once you're close to the line, neaten the edge with a tile file or a diamond-coated rotary burr.

6. Drill clean holes for pipes and fixings

Holes through tiles for pipework, towel rail fixings, or mirror screws need a diamond-tipped tile drill bit - standard masonry or HSS bits crack the glaze. Mark the hole centre with a tile marker and, for small holes, stick a cross of masking tape over the spot to stop the bit skating across the tile surface as you start.

Drill at slow speed with light pressure and no hammer action. Keep the bit cool by dribbling water onto it or pausing to let it cool down. Once through the tile, switch to a masonry bit to continue into the wall behind.

7. Smooth rough edges

Cut tile edges that will be visible - on an external corner, at a doorway threshold, or around a window - should be smoothed with a tile file or a diamond-coated sanding block. Take the sharp arris off the edge to reduce the risk of chipping and give the grout joint a consistent width to fill.

For edges that will be hidden behind grout, a quick pass is enough. For exposed edges, particularly on porcelain with a polished finish, a bit more care is worthwhile.

When to call a handyman

Most people can manage straight cuts with a hire saw and a bit of patience. Where it gets tricky is large-format porcelain on an uneven floor, intricate curves around complex shapes, and matching cuts to existing tiles where any mistake shows. Richard can help with tiling jobs where the cutting is the hardest part.