How to winterise an outside tap

A practical UK frost protection guide. This guide is based on the UK-focused video "How To Fit An Outside Tap Cover: Frost Protection", a clear walkthrough of the steps involved in protecting an outside tap through winter - covering both the drain-down process and fitting an insulated cover.

1. Find the isolation valve inside the house

Most outside taps are fed from a dedicated branch off the cold water supply, usually somewhere accessible indoors - under the kitchen sink, in a utility room, or where the pipe runs through the wall from inside to outside. There should be an isolation valve (a small inline valve with a screwdriver slot) on this branch.

If you cannot locate the isolation valve, look for where the pipe exits through the wall and trace it back. In some older properties there is no dedicated isolation valve and you would need to turn off the main stopcock to drain the outside tap. That is worth having a plumber sort at some point - a dedicated valve is cheap and much more convenient.

2. Shut off the supply to the tap

Turn the isolation valve to the closed position - a quarter turn so the slot runs across the pipe rather than along it. If it is a gate valve (a round handle), turn it clockwise until it stops.

Do this before it gets cold. The first hard frost in Kent can arrive any time from late October onwards, and it is better to do it on a mild autumn afternoon than scrambling in the dark in November when there is already a freeze forecast.

3. Open the outside tap to drain it

Go outside and open the tap fully. Any water remaining in the section of pipe between the isolation valve and the tap will drain out. Leave the tap open for a minute or two to make sure it has fully cleared.

You may only get a small amount of water - that is normal. The pipe between the valve and the tap is not long. The important thing is that there is no standing water left in the tap body or that pipe section when the temperature drops.

4. Disconnect the hosepipe and store it

Remove any hose or fitting attached to the tap and store it in a shed or garage. Hose connectors and rubber washers left outdoors all winter can deteriorate and are often the cause of small leaks when you reconnect everything in spring.

Coil the hose loosely and hang it off the ground rather than leaving it coiled flat - it lasts longer and takes up less space.

5. Fit an insulated tap cover

Even with the supply isolated, an insulated tap cover adds a useful extra layer of protection - particularly for any short length of pipe running on the outside face of the wall before it reaches the tap. These are inexpensive (around five to ten pounds) and attach simply with a strap or press stud.

Foam pipe lagging is also worth fitting to any exposed external pipework. Cut it to length and push it over the pipe - it clips together around the pipe without needing any adhesive. In particularly exposed positions, you can add a cable tie at each end to keep it in place.

6. Check the pipe running through the wall

The point where a pipe passes through an external wall is worth checking. There should be no gap around the pipe - gaps let cold air in and can mean the pipe inside the wall is colder than it should be. Seal any gaps with exterior-grade filler or expanding foam. On older properties this is often where pipes have been added without proper sealing.

If the pipe runs a long way through a cold space such as an unheated garage or outbuilding, consider adding pipe lagging to that section too, even though it is technically indoors.

When to call a handyman

If the tap itself is leaking, the isolation valve is seized or missing, or you are not sure where the supply comes from, this is straightforward for a plumber or handyman to sort on a single visit. Richard covers outside tap installations, isolation valve fitting, and winter plumbing prep across Sandwich and East Kent.