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Garden watering guide

How to water your garden wisely

Watering looks simple but most people do it wrong. Too often, too shallow, and at the wrong time of day. A bit of thought about when, where, and how much makes a real difference to plant health, and to how much water you get through.

Video: How to Water Your Garden Wisely. This guide was informed by guidance from Adrian Thorne, an RHS Horticultural Advisor, on making the most of water in the garden. The RHS covers both the science and the practical side clearly.

1. Water at the right time of day

Early morning is best. The soil temperature is lower, the sun is not yet strong, and water has time to soak down to the roots before the heat of the day. Early morning also leaves leaves dry by afternoon, which reduces fungal problems.

Evening watering works too if morning is not practical, though it leaves plants damp overnight. Avoid watering in the middle of the day in summer. Much of it evaporates before it reaches the roots, and wet foliage in strong sun can scorch some plants.

2. Focus water at the roots

Plants absorb water through their roots, not their leaves. Directing water at the base of the plant is more efficient and reduces fungal disease. For established trees and shrubs, water slowly and deeply at the drip line - roughly at the outer edge of the canopy - rather than at the trunk.

A watering can with a rose or a hose with a gentle spray works well for borders. For beds and containers, a narrow spout directed at the compost is better than a spray over the whole plant.

3. Water deeply and less often

Shallow, frequent watering encourages roots to stay near the surface, where they are more vulnerable to drought. Deep, less frequent watering drives roots deeper into the soil where there is more moisture and they are more resilient.

In practice, this means watering your borders less often but giving them a proper soaking when you do. The RHS advises giving established plants about 10 litres per square metre during dry spells, then leaving them for several days rather than giving them a light sprinkle every day.

4. Know which plants need the most water

Not everything needs the same attention. Containers dry out fastest and may need daily watering in summer. Newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials need regular watering through their first full growing season until their roots establish. Established shrubs and trees in open ground are largely self-sufficient once settled.

Vegetables are thirsty, particularly at key moments: leafy crops when growing fast, courgettes and squash once flowering starts, and tomatoes when fruits are swelling. Missing these windows causes poor yields and blossom end rot. Established lawns, to be fair, can largely look after themselves - yellow grass in summer usually greens up with the first rain.

5. Mulch to hold moisture

A 5 to 8cm layer of bark chippings, well-rotted compost, or grass clippings over the soil surface dramatically reduces moisture loss. Mulch also suppresses weeds and improves soil structure over time. Apply it in spring when the soil is moist, keeping it away from plant stems and crowns.

In East Kent's lighter sandy soils, mulching makes a particularly big difference in dry spells since sandy soil holds little moisture on its own.

6. Use a water butt wherever possible

Rainwater is better for the garden than mains water - it is slightly acidic, free of chlorine, and the right temperature. A standard 200-litre water butt connected to a downpipe fills quickly during autumn and winter and provides useful free water through spring and early summer.

Connect the butt with a first-flush diverter to keep the water cleaner. Position it on a stand so a watering can fits under the tap. If you have space and rainfall, two butts linked together extend your storage considerably.

7. Consider drip or seep hose for large plots

Seep hose (or leaky pipe) laid along rows of vegetables or through a border delivers water slowly and directly to the root zone with almost no evaporation loss. It is one of the most efficient ways to water a vegetable garden.

Connect it to a water butt with a timer and you have an almost hands-free watering system through the summer. Installation is straightforward - no specialist tools needed - and the hose can be buried under mulch to make it invisible.

When to call a handyman

Need an outside tap fitted so you can reach the vegetable garden without dragging a hose through the house? Or a water butt plumbed in with a proper diverter and stand? Richard can sort both. Neither job takes long and both make a noticeable difference to how easy the garden is to manage in summer.

Need an outside tap or water butt fitted?

Richard can fit an outside tap or connect a water butt properly - both good investments for any garden in East Kent.

Contact Richard