How to restore decking

Based on guidance from Ronseal. This walk-through follows the approach in "How To Restore Decking | DIY Tips from Ronseal" by Ronseal (ronseal.co.uk), a UK wood treatment brand founded in 1956 and widely available at builders' merchants and DIY retailers across East Kent.

1. Check the condition of the boards

Before starting, check each board carefully. Press a screwdriver into the wood at the ends and where boards touch the joists: any wood that feels soft or spongy has begun to rot and should be replaced rather than restored. Surface weathering - grey colouring, slight roughness, some raised grain - is normal and is exactly what this process addresses. Boards that are structurally sound but cosmetically tired are the right candidates for restoration.

2. Clear the decking and sweep thoroughly

Remove all furniture, plant pots, and anything stored on or beneath the decking. Sweep the surface and use a flat-bladed tool to clear debris from the gaps between boards, where leaf matter and grime accumulate over winter and trap moisture. Working on a dirty surface wastes time and products.

3. Apply a decking stripper or cleaner

If the decking has a previous coating of oil, stain, or restorer, apply a dedicated decking stripper to break down the old product. Follow the manufacturer's instructions - most products are applied with a brush or sprayer, left to soak for 15 to 30 minutes, then scrubbed and rinsed off. If the boards have simply weathered without a previous coating, a decking cleaner rather than a stripper is sufficient. Apply it evenly and work it in with a stiff-bristled brush, scrubbing along the grain.

4. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry

Rinse the decking thoroughly with clean water, using a garden hose or a pressure washer on a low setting. Keep the lance moving if using a pressure washer to avoid marking the grain. Leave the boards to dry out completely before the next step - this usually takes 24 to 48 hours depending on the weather. The boards should look uniformly dry and be a lighter, more even colour than when wet.

5. Sand the boards lightly

Once dry, sand the decking with a medium-grit abrasive - 80 grit works well - either by hand for a small area or using a belt sander or orbital sander for a larger deck. Sand along the grain, not across it. This opens up the wood fibres so the restorer can penetrate properly and removes any remaining raised grain or roughness from the cleaning process. Pay attention to the edges and gaps, which often look rougher than the main surface. Sweep away all sanding dust before applying any product.

6. Apply the decking restorer or stain

Stir the restorer thoroughly before use: pigments settle in the tin. Apply with a wide decking brush, working one or two boards at a time along the grain. Apply generously enough for the wood to look damp and to absorb the product, rather than just skimming the surface. Work the brush into the gaps between boards and along the sides of each board as well as the top face. Keep a wet edge to avoid lap marks where two sections of application meet.

7. Apply a second coat if needed

If the first coat soaks in fully within an hour or the boards look patchy when dry, apply a second coat before the first has fully cured - typically within two to four hours of the first application. On heavily weathered timber a second coat is usually worthwhile. Wipe off any excess that has not soaked in after the final coat, using a clean cloth. Allow the restorer to cure for at least 24 hours before putting furniture back or using the deck.

When to call a handyman

Restoring decking is a weekend job that most people can manage themselves, given a decent dry spell. Where Richard is useful is if individual boards need replacing before the restoration can start, or if the job is simply too big to tackle in one go. Decking repair and maintenance in Sandwich and East Kent is a standard garden maintenance job.