How to replace an induction hob

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. We based this walk-through on the popular UK video "HOW TO Install an Induction Hob into an Existing Kitchen", which shows an electrician fitting a new induction hob step by step: confirming the circuit, making the cut-out, connecting the flex to the terminal block, and testing. Worth watching before you buy your new hob, because some models need ventilation clearances that the old one did not.

1. Check the circuit before buying anything

Most UK electric hobs run off a dedicated 6mm twin-and-earth cable on a 32-amp or 45-amp circuit. Induction hobs typically draw between 6 and 7.4 kW for a four-zone model, so confirm your existing cable and fuse are rated for the new load.

If the old hob was a two-ring ceramic on a 20-amp spur, you may need a circuit upgrade before the new hob goes in. Check the rating plate on the new unit, then compare it to what is currently in the consumer unit. If in doubt, ask a qualified electrician before you spend money on a hob you cannot safely connect.

2. Turn off the power properly

Isolate the hob circuit at the consumer unit. Lock it off or use a circuit breaker lock if you have one. Double-check with a socket tester or non-contact voltage tester that the terminals are dead before you touch anything.

Do not rely on just turning off the hob. The terminal block behind the hob will still be live if the circuit breaker is on.

3. Disconnect and remove the old hob

Release the hob clips from underneath the worktop (usually four of them, on small brackets). Lift the hob out. The cable either feeds through the worktop or comes up through a cabinet below.

If the old hob was hard-wired, you will need to undo the terminal block connections. Note down which wire goes where, or photograph it before you undo anything. Live is brown (red on older installations), neutral is blue (black on older), and earth is green-and-yellow.

4. Check and adjust the cut-out if needed

Standard built-in hob cut-outs are 560 mm by 490 mm, give or take a few millimetres by brand. Compare the new hob's cut-out dimensions to what is already in the worktop.

If the new hob is a fraction larger, you can widen the cut with a jigsaw on laminate or an angle grinder with a tile disc on a stone worktop. Protect the worktop surface with masking tape and a straight-edge guide. If the cut-out is too big, the new hob will not seal properly - check the dimensions carefully before you buy.

5. Connect the hob to the supply cable

Most induction hobs come with a terminal block and strain relief. Strip the cable end back 60-70 mm, strip each conductor 8-10 mm, and connect to the correct terminals: L (live), N (neutral), and E or the earth symbol. Tighten firmly - loose connections cause arcing.

Thread the cable up through the relief, tighten the clamp so the cable cannot pull free, then push the terminal block back into its recess and replace the cover.

6. Lower the hob into position and fit the clips

Peel the protective film off the surface before lowering the hob. Drop it into the cut-out. Reach under the worktop and fit the retaining clips in the slots - usually a clockwise quarter-turn with a screwdriver to lock them. The clips draw the hob down against the worktop seal.

Some hobs use foam tape instead of clips. Press down firmly around the edge after fitting for a watertight seal.

7. Restore power and test each zone

Switch the circuit back on at the consumer unit. Test all four induction zones with a suitable pan (induction-compatible pans attract a magnet on their base). Check the touch controls and any timer functions before you start cooking on it.

If a zone does not light up or the hob throws an error code, turn off, check your terminal connections again, and consult the manual before calling anyone out.

When to call a handyman or electrician

Call a qualified electrician if the circuit needs upgrading, the cable run needs extending, or you are unsure about the existing wiring. Under Part P of the Building Regulations, replacing a kitchen hob circuit in England and Wales may need to be notified to your local building control department unless the work is done by a registered electrician (such as an NICEIC or NAPIT member). Richard can assist with fitting and worktop work; the electrical connection side needs an appropriate cert.