How to plant a native hedgerow

Inspired by a UK native plants specialist. This walk-through draws on "How to plant a native hedge" by Habitat Aid, a Somerset-based UK company focused on native UK plants and wildlife habitat. They source their stock from specialist UK nurseries, and their hedge planting video covers bare-root technique clearly and practically.

1. Choose your species mix

A native hedgerow works best with a mix of species rather than a single plant. Hawthorn is the backbone of most UK hedges - it is tough, thorny, flowers well, and produces berries for birds. Mix in some blackthorn for denser structure, plus field maple, hazel, dog rose, and spindle for variety and wildlife value.

For a garden boundary in Sandwich and East Kent, a mix of around five species planted in rough groups of two or three works well. Avoid anything labelled as ornamental or non-native if wildlife habitat is the goal. British-grown stock from a UK nursery is worth the premium.

2. Plan the spacing and order your whips

Bare-root hedging whips are typically planted at around 3 to 5 plants per metre for a garden hedge. A double staggered row at 45cm apart within each row gives faster density and a more natural look than a single line.

Work out your total metreage, multiply up, and add 10% for losses. Order from a specialist UK bare-root nursery in late summer for autumn delivery. Most stock arrives from October to March when the plants are dormant.

3. Prepare the ground

Clear weeds along the planting line, ideally to about 600mm either side. Competitive grass and dock roots will slow young hedge plants considerably in the first season. Digging, strimmming back, or laying cardboard mulch all work. Glyphosate is an option too, but leave at least three weeks before planting if you use it.

If the soil is heavy clay, add some grit or compost along the line as you go. Hedging whips are resilient plants but they establish faster in reasonably well-drained ground.

4. Plant the whips at the right depth

Dig each hole deep enough so the root collar (the point where roots meet stem) sits at the same depth it was in the nursery - you can usually see the soil mark on the stem. Plant too shallow and the roots will dry out. Too deep and the stem can rot.

Habitat Aid's video makes a good point here: roots may look dry or a bit dishevelled on delivery but they are fine. Soak them in a bucket of water for an hour before planting if they have been in the bag for more than a day or two, but do not worry about surface appearance. What matters is the root ball is intact.

5. Firm the soil well around each plant

Work the soil back in around the roots, then firm it with your heel. There should be no air pockets around the root zone. A loose-planted whip will rock in the wind and the roots will not establish properly.

Check each plant is upright and adjust before moving on. Once the soil dries, they are much harder to straighten without disturbing the roots again.

6. Mulch along the whole row

Lay a 75mm depth of bark chip or wood chip mulch along the full planting row, keeping it a couple of centimetres away from the stems themselves. Mulch suppresses competing weeds, holds moisture, and regulates soil temperature through the first summer.

A strip of cardboard under the mulch helps further. It breaks down over a year and suppresses weeds without any lasting harm.

7. Protect from rabbits and deer if needed

In East Kent, rabbits are a genuine problem for young hedging plants. Spiral tree guards on each whip will protect them through the vulnerable first few years. They are cheap and come off once the stems are established enough to handle nibbling.

If deer are present, you will need a fence or individual guards tall enough to reach above browse height (around 1.2 metres). The guides are worth it. A newly planted hedge stripped by deer in February is a demoralising sight.

8. Water in and keep on top of weeds through the first summer

If the ground is dry after planting, water each plant in. After that, established native hedging needs little water except during prolonged dry spells. That said, the first summer is the vulnerable one. If June and July are dry, water the row every week or two until autumn.

Keep the weed-free strip clear for the first two seasons. After that the plants will be robust enough to compete on their own. Formative pruning in year two encourages bushy lower growth, but do not cut hard the first year. Let them establish first.

When to call a handyman

If the hedge runs along a shared or legal boundary, get written agreement with your neighbour in advance before planting. It is also worth calling Richard if the ground needs cultivation by machine, if you want the hedge combined with new fencing along the same line, or if you need help with the clearing work beforehand.