How to install a garden fence with gravel boards

Inspired by a thorough guide from Jacksons Fencing. This walk-through draws on the "How to Install a Garden Fence" video from Jacksons Fencing, a British fencing manufacturer that's been making quality fencing products since 1947. Their video covers timber posts, gravel boards, and panel installation clearly - particularly useful for the section on getting posts plumb before the concrete goes off.

1. Plan the fence line and check boundaries

Before any digging, check that you know exactly where your boundary is. A fence built even a few centimetres into a neighbour's land can cause problems later. If in doubt, ask to see the deeds.

Also check whether you need planning permission. In most cases a garden fence under 2 metres doesn't require it, but if you're near a road or in a conservation area the rules are stricter.

2. Mark out the post positions

Run a string line along the fence line and mark post positions with stakes. Standard fence panels are 1.83 metres wide, so posts go roughly 1.83 metres apart (plus the post width itself). Measure carefully - panels that don't fit properly are a headache.

Mark each hole position clearly. Once you start digging, it's easy to lose track of exactly where you started. A can of line marking paint is useful on grass.

3. Dig the post holes

Post holes need to be at least 600 mm deep - some recommend a third of the total post length in the ground. A 2.4 m post for a 1.8 m fence should go in at least 600 mm. A post hole borer (hire one for the day) makes this much easier than a spade.

For a concrete post you also want the hole wide enough to get concrete around all four sides. Around 200–250 mm across is typical.

4. Set the first post in concrete

Start at one end. Drop the post into the hole, pack some hardcore at the base for drainage, and brace it plumb in both directions using a spirit level. Mix postcrete (fast-setting concrete) following the packet instructions - most products allow you to just pour the dry mix in and add water.

Hold the post dead plumb until the concrete starts to firm up. Don't rush this. A post that sets out of true will throw the whole run out. Allow at least 24–48 hours before loading the panel.

5. Set the remaining posts

Use the string line to keep each successive post in line. Check plumb both forward and sideways as you go. If the fence line changes direction or runs up a slope, take time to plan the transition - stepped panels look intentional; wonky ones don't.

Set all posts before fitting any panels. Trying to hang panels between wet posts as you go sounds efficient but rarely is.

6. Fit the gravel boards at the base

Concrete gravel boards slot into the grooves in the concrete posts at the bottom. Fit them once all the posts are set and cured. They typically come in 150 mm or 300 mm heights.

The gravel board sits close to the ground (it can even touch), protecting the fence panel above it from moisture. That's the point of them - concrete doesn't rot, so it takes the hit and the panel stays dry.

7. Slot the fence panels in

Fence panels slide down into the post grooves above the gravel board. They should be a snug fit. If a panel is slightly narrow, use small offcuts of treated timber as packing to stop it rattling in the wind.

Check each panel is sitting level before moving on. A level garden fence is far easier to achieve while you're building it than afterwards.

8. Fit post caps and treat any cut ends

Post caps keep rainwater from sitting on top of the posts and working its way down. They clip or screw on and they're cheap - always worth fitting. For timber panels and gravel boards, brush any cut ends with a proprietary end-grain preservative to extend their life.

That said, concrete posts and concrete gravel boards need no treatment at all. One of the main advantages of going concrete at the base is you can largely forget about it once it's in.

When to call a handyman

Fence installation is a lot of physical work - digging post holes, handling panels, mixing concrete. If you've got a long run of fencing or the ground is particularly hard, Richard can take the whole job off your hands. He'll set out the line, set the posts straight, and leave you with a fence that stands true and lasts.