How to grow snowdrops

From Thompson & Morgan. This walk-through draws on the popular video "How to Plant Snowdrops and Other Bulbs in the Green with Thompson & Morgan", presented by Sue Sanderson, plant expert at the well-known UK seed and bulb company. It covers the in-the-green method clearly and applies directly to British gardens.

1. Understand the difference between dry bulbs and in-the-green

Most bulbs are sold dry, lifted and cured before packaging. Snowdrops are different. Their dry bulbs have a poor track record - they desiccate quickly, the roots die off, and many simply do not establish. You plant them and nothing comes up. It is not unusual, and it is not always your fault.

In the green means the bulbs are lifted with their foliage still attached, just after they finish flowering in late winter. You transplant them while they are still alive. The success rate is much higher because the bulb has not been through that period of drying and storage. If you can find in-the-green snowdrops to buy, that is the better option.

2. Choose the right spot

Snowdrops prefer partial shade or dappled light. Under deciduous trees is ideal because the trees are bare in winter and early spring when the snowdrops are flowering, letting in enough light, and then the canopy closes just as the snowdrop foliage is dying back. A similar effect comes from the north side of a hedge or wall, or between established shrubs.

The soil should stay reasonably moist but not sit waterlogged. A humus-rich, slightly heavy soil suits them well. They struggle in thin, very dry soils, so if your East Kent garden has sandy patches, mix in some garden compost or leaf mould before planting.

3. Prepare the soil

Dig over the planting area lightly and work in a good layer of well-rotted compost or leaf mould. Snowdrops like woodland-type conditions, so the more organic matter the better. This also helps the soil hold moisture through a dry spell in late winter, which is important when the flowers are up and working.

Do not add chemical fertiliser. It is not needed and can do more harm than good. These are small woodland bulbs, not heavy feeders.

4. Plant dry bulbs in September or October

If you are working with dry bulbs, plant them as soon as you get them - do not leave them sitting in a bag for weeks. Plant about 5 to 8 centimetres deep with the pointed end up. Space 5 to 8 centimetres apart. Plant in groups rather than single bulbs scattered about; a cluster of a dozen will look far more natural and effective than the same number spread thinly.

Water them in well. Accept that the first year may be disappointing with dry bulbs. Some will establish, some will not. Those that do come back will multiply year on year, so be patient.

5. Plant in the green in late winter

In-the-green snowdrops arrive from February through to April, usually sold in clumps of five or more. The white part of the stem should still be visible. Transplant them promptly - do not let them dry out in the packet.

Plant at the same depth they came from: the white section of stem should be just below the soil surface, with the green above it. Firm them in gently and water well. They will look sorry for themselves for a few days as the leaves droop, but they almost always rally once the roots take hold.

6. Let them naturalise and divide after a few years

Once established, snowdrops naturalise well. Each small bulb produces offsets, and clumps gradually expand. Leave them to it. After four or five years, large congested clumps can be split in the green (just after flowering) to spread them further around the garden. This is far better than lifting and drying them, and it is a good way to share them with neighbours too.

There is a tradition in gardening called galanthophilia - a passion for collecting snowdrop varieties. Once you start noticing the differences between single and double forms, green markings, and early or late flowering, it can become something of a habit.

When to call a handyman

Planting a small clump of snowdrops is a gentle job. But if you are trying to establish them under trees where the ground is full of roots, or preparing a larger shaded area, some soil preparation work makes a real difference. Richard can help with that sort of garden groundwork across Sandwich and East Kent.