Inspired by David Domoney's popular UK gardening guide. This walk-through is based on the "Growing Lupins: Your Most Asked Questions Answered" video by David Domoney, one of the UK's best-known TV gardeners. He covers the questions people actually search for - why lupins don't flower, what to do after they've finished, the aphid problem - all in a straightforward way. Worth watching before you buy your first plant.
1. Pick the right variety for your border
The Russell Lupins are the classic choice - tall, dramatic flower spikes in a huge range of colours and bicolours. If you want something a bit more compact, the Gallery or Popsicle series top out at around 50 cm and work well at the front of a border or in a large pot.
Bear in mind that lupins sold as named varieties won't come true from their own seed, so if you want to keep a specific colour year after year, you either buy fresh plants or take basal cuttings in spring. That's a fair bit less hassle than it sounds.
2. Soil is the thing lupins care about most
Lupins like free-draining, slightly acidic soil - roughly pH 6 to 7. They do poorly on heavy, waterlogged ground and they really struggle on chalky soil, which is worth knowing in East Kent where chalk sits close to the surface in some gardens.
If your soil is heavy clay, dig in plenty of grit and well-rotted compost before planting. If it's very chalky, you're better off growing lupins in a raised bed or large container filled with ericaceous compost mixed with multi-purpose.
3. Sow from seed in spring or autumn
Lupin seeds have a hard coat. Soak them overnight in water before sowing - it speeds up germination noticeably. Sow in small pots or a seed tray, just below the surface, in a cold greenhouse or on a sheltered windowsill.
Spring sowings (March to May) should flower the following year. Autumn sowings (September to October) can sometimes produce flowers the next summer if they establish well. Either way, don't expect a first-year plant to give you a big display - they put most of their energy into roots in year one.
4. Plant in a sunny spot with shelter from the wind
Full sun to partial shade is fine. The taller varieties will need staking if they're in an exposed position - a cane and some soft garden twine is enough. Put the stake in when you plant, not after the flower spike has already started leaning over.
Space plants about 60 cm apart. They put on a reasonable spread and will resent being crowded out before they've had a chance to get going.
5. Water regularly in the first season
Young plants need consistent moisture to establish. Once they're settled in - usually by their second year - lupins are fairly drought-tolerant and don't need much fussing over. In a dry spell during flowering, a good soak once a week is better than a little splash every day.
Don't feed with a high-nitrogen fertiliser. Lupins fix their own nitrogen from the air through their roots, so extra nitrogen just encourages a lot of leafy growth and fewer flowers. If you want to feed, a low-nitrogen potash feed in spring is fine.
6. Cut back the spike after flowering for a second flush
As soon as the main flower spike has gone over, cut it right back to where it meets the basal foliage. Don't leave the old spike on - it wastes the plant's energy. Done promptly, many lupins will push out a second, slightly smaller flush of flowers in late summer.
Leave a few spikes to set seed if you want to try saving them, though as mentioned, named varieties won't come true. Any seedlings that do germinate will be variable - which can be a pleasant surprise or a disappointment, depending on what you get.
7. Watch out for lupin aphids
Lupin aphids are hard to miss - they're large, grey-blue, and they cluster on the stems in big groups. A heavy infestation before flowering can seriously weaken the plant. Check stems regularly from late April onwards.
A blast of water from a hosepipe knocks them off and is often enough if you catch them early. Insecticidal soap or a neem-based spray works if numbers are high. Ladybirds and hoverflies will eat them if you give nature a chance, so don't reach for something chemical unless you really need to.
8. Mulch around the base in autumn
Lupins are perennials but they can be short-lived - three to five years is a reasonable lifespan, especially on heavier soils. A mulch of well-rotted compost around the base in autumn helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and feeds the soil as it breaks down. It won't make a lupin immortal, but it helps.
In mild winters, the foliage stays semi-evergreen and the plant can look a bit tatty. Tidy it back in early spring before new growth appears.
When to call a handyman
Lupins themselves are a gardening job. But if the border needs clearing, soil improving, or raised beds building before you plant, Richard can take care of that. Heavy ground preparation - digging in compost, laying bark paths, building sleeper beds - is the kind of physical work that makes everything else easier once it's done.
Need help getting a border ready?
The Sandwich Handyman can help with garden clearance, border preparation, raised bed construction, and general seasonal maintenance in Sandwich, Kent and the surrounding villages.
Contact Richard