How to fit roller blinds

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This guide draws on “How To Fit Roller Blinds” from 247 Blinds, a UK made-to-measure blinds retailer based in Huddersfield. Clear and practical, the video covers both recess and face-fit installations and is particularly useful for understanding how the bracket types differ between the two methods.

1. Decide on recess or face fit

A recess fit sits inside the window reveal, giving a neat, built-in look. A face fit sits on the wall or window frame above and outside the reveal, and is better for windows where the reveal is shallow or where you want maximum light block.

For a recess fit, measure the width of the reveal at the top, middle, and bottom — old houses are rarely perfectly square. Use the narrowest measurement and deduct around 10 mm so the blind fits without binding. For a face fit, add at least 100 mm each side of the reveal for adequate coverage.

2. Measure correctly

Measure the drop from where the top of the blind will sit to the window sill (for a recess fit) or to where you want the blind to end (for a face fit). Add enough for the blind to roll up fully at the top when raised. Most made-to-measure suppliers ask for exact measurements and build in their own tolerances, so check the instructions before deducting anything.

Double-check your measurements before ordering. Cutting a blind shorter is possible but fiddly; making it wider is not.

3. Cut blind to size if needed

If you have bought an off-the-shelf blind that needs trimming, most come with a cutting guide. Score and cut the fabric carefully with sharp scissors or a craft knife against a straight edge, then trim the roller tube to match using a hacksaw. Smooth any rough edges on the tube end with sandpaper so the bracket pin seats cleanly.

4. Mark and check bracket positions

Hold the brackets in position and mark the screw holes with a pencil. Check both brackets are level with each other using a spirit level — a blind hung at an angle will roll up unevenly. For a recess fit, check both brackets are the same distance from the front of the reveal.

Before drilling, check for pipes and cables in the wall with a detector. Window frames and reveals are less likely to have hidden services than walls, but it is worth checking.

5. Drill and fix the brackets

Drill pilot holes and fit the brackets. For masonry or a solid window board, use wall plugs. For a timber frame or uPVC, use appropriate screws for the material — do not use standard woodscrews in uPVC without manufacturer guidance, as they can crack the profile.

Pull firmly on each bracket after fixing to check it is secure before loading it with the blind.

6. Fit the roller tube into the brackets

Roller blinds have a round pin on one end and a flat or square drive pin on the other. The round pin clips into the round bracket; the chain drive end clips into the other. Clip the roller tube into position — it should snap or push in firmly. Give the tube a pull to check it is seated.

Lower the blind and check it hangs straight. If it pulls to one side, the brackets are not level — adjust before moving on.

7. Attach the chain guide and pelmet

If your blind came with a chain guide (a small clip that holds the chain to the wall to stop it swinging), fix it to the wall at a comfortable operating height. A loose chain on a child safety-compliant blind must be secured within reach of the floor if children are present.

If a pelmet or fascia is included, clip or screw it to the front of the brackets to cover the roller tube. This is usually the last step and just snaps into place.

8. Test the operation

Raise and lower the blind several times. The fabric should roll smoothly and evenly. If the blind creeps down when raised, the tension spring in the roller may need adjusting — remove the blind, roll it up by hand a few turns, and refit. If the blind rolls up too fast, partially unroll it by hand before refitting.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the window reveal is out of square and the blind needs trimming to fit, if the wall surface is tricky (tiled splashbacks, uPVC frames without drilling points), or if you are fitting multiple blinds and want the job done in one go. It is a quick job with the right tools but fiddly without them.