Video by Dunelm. This guide draws on the "How to Fit Roman Blinds" video from the official Dunelm channel, which covers fitting inside the recess and outside on the window board. It is a clear, no-nonsense walk-through that shows both bracket positions and how the headrail clips in. Worth a watch — particularly the section on measuring for an inside-recess fit, where a couple of millimetres either way makes a real difference.
1. Decide: inside or outside the recess?
An inside-recess fit sits within the window reveal and gives a neat, built-in look. An outside fit goes above the recess on the wall or window board and can make a small window look larger. Most people go inside the recess for a tidy finish.
For an inside fit, measure the internal width of the recess at the top, middle, and bottom — old houses are rarely perfectly square. Use the narrowest measurement and subtract 5mm to allow the blind to drop without catching the sides.
2. Measure the drop carefully
Measure from where the headrail will sit to the window sill (inside) or to the length you want (outside). Most ready-made Roman blinds can be trimmed to length from the bottom. Check the instructions before cutting — some cannot be shortened at all.
For an outside fit, add around 10–15cm above the frame so the blind covers the window fully when lowered, and leaves clearance between the headrail and the ceiling if needed.
3. Mark the bracket positions
Most Roman blinds come with two brackets, sometimes three for wider blinds. The end brackets go 5cm in from each end of the headrail. Mark their positions lightly in pencil — check they are the same distance from the front edge of the recess on both sides, and that they are level.
A small spirit level is well worth using here. A blind that is even one degree out looks noticeably wonky when you pull it up.
4. Fix the brackets
For inside-recess fitting into plasterboard, use the wall plugs and screws supplied. For solid plaster or timber, the supplied screws usually go straight in. Check what is behind the wall before drilling — some window reveals have pipes or cables running to adjacent fittings.
If the recess is timber (common in older casement windows), pilot the holes first to avoid splitting the wood. Tighten firmly but not aggressively — overtightening into a plastic bracket housing can crack it.
5. Clip in the headrail
Offer the headrail up to the brackets and click it into place. Most systems have a simple snap-fit or a locking lever. Give the headrail a gentle tug to make sure it is seated properly — if it is not fully home, the blind will feel loose and may drop unexpectedly.
Let the blind down fully to check it hangs straight and the fabric does not catch on the recess sides. A small adjustment to which slot the brackets sit in can sort out any lean.
6. Fit the cord cleat — this is not optional
Roman blinds have a pull cord to raise and lower them, and that cord is a serious strangulation hazard for young children. Fit the cord cleat to the wall at a height children cannot reach — around 1.5 metres is the standard recommendation. Wind the cord around it when the blind is at the height you want.
If the blind came with a cord-safety device, fit that too. This is not fuss — it is standard practice and a legal safety requirement for blinds sold in the UK since 2014.
When to call a handyman
Call Richard if the recess is an awkward shape, if there are tiles or a tiled reveal where drilling without cracking is tricky, or if the window is very wide and needs extra support mid-span. Fitting blinds in bay windows can also get complicated quickly, depending on the angle of the returns.
Need Roman blinds or other window treatments fitted?
The Sandwich Handyman can fit Roman, roller, Venetian, or other blinds in Sandwich, Kent — including tricky recess situations and child-safety cord fixing.
Contact Richard