How to fit a shower bath screen

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. We based this walk-through on the popular UK video "How to Fit a Shower Bath Screen" from Victorian Plumbing, which covers the full process from unpacking to sealing. The section on adjusting the hinged panel so it closes flush against the fixed panel is the bit that trips most people up — worth watching before you commit the silicone.

1. Choose the screen type

The most common bath screen is a two-panel design: one fixed panel attached to the wall and one hinged panel that folds back out of the way when you want to use the bath without a shower. Single fixed panels are simpler to fit and perfectly adequate if you always shower.

Check the pivot height before ordering. Most screens come in two heights — typically 1400mm and 1500mm. Taller screens give better coverage but need a bit more wall to fix to. Also check which side the hinge is on: most are handed, so a left-hand hinge is different from a right-hand hinge.

2. Mark the wall fixing position

Position the screen at the tap end of the bath, not the plughole end. The wall profile sits against the wall that runs along the side of the bath, fixed vertically.

Hold the wall profile in position and use a spirit level to check it is plumb. Mark the fixing points through the holes in the profile. If the wall is tiled, mark carefully — you will be drilling through tiles and into the substrate behind.

Check for pipes and cables before drilling. A pipe detector takes 30 seconds and saves a great deal of trouble. Shower valves and supply pipes often run vertically inside the wall at the tap end, so check the area carefully.

3. Drill and fix the wall profile

Use a carbide-tipped tile drill bit for the first pass through tiles — slow speed, gentle pressure. Once through the tile, switch to a masonry bit to go into the wall behind. Most bathroom walls behind tiles are either block, brick, or plasterboard.

Insert wall plugs appropriate for your wall type. Screw the wall profile into position but do not fully tighten yet — you want to be able to make small adjustments while you check that everything lines up with the bath rim below.

Once you are happy the profile is plumb and in the right position, tighten fully.

4. Fit the bottom seal

The bath seal strip fits along the top of the bath rim, directly below where the screen will sit. It creates a flexible watertight junction between the glass panel and the bath.

Peel the backing from the adhesive strip and press the seal onto the bath rim. Run it along the full width of where the screen will sit. Press firmly and hold for a minute. Some screens include a magnetic seal rather than an adhesive one — follow the instructions for your specific kit.

5. Hang and adjust the screen

Slot the fixed glass panel into the wall profile and fix it at the bottom according to the instructions. Fit the hinge mechanism and hang the moving panel. On most screens, the pivot pins adjust in height to allow the panel to hang level and close snugly against the fixed panel.

Open and close the hinged panel several times to check the action. It should swing freely and meet the fixed panel with light magnetic contact. If it is stiff or does not close flush, adjust the pivot height by slackening the locking nut, moving the pin up or down, and retightening. Small adjustments make a noticeable difference.

6. Apply silicone

Seal the join between the wall profile and the wall tiles with sanitary silicone. Run a neat bead down the full length of the profile on the wall side. Smooth with a wet finger and remove excess with a damp cloth before it skins over.

Also seal the base of the wall profile where it meets the bath. This is a common point of water ingress if left unsealed. Leave the silicone to cure for 24 hours before using the shower.

Do not silicone the hinge side of the hinged panel or any moving part. Those joints need to remain free to flex.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the wall at the fixing position is not solid — a stud wall or hollow plasterboard at the tap end of the bath needs careful fixing into the studs, and they are not always where you need them. Also worth calling if the existing silicone around the bath is failing at the same time, since it is sensible to do both jobs together.