How to fit a bath panel

Inspired by a clear UK fitting guide. This walk-through is based on the "How to Fit a Wooden Bath Panel" video by Victorian Plumbing, a major UK bathroom retailer. The technique works equally well for acrylic and MDF panels, with minor differences in how they are trimmed and finished.

1. Measure up and choose the right panel

Measure the length and height of the exposed bath side. Standard bath panels come in 1700 mm and 1800 mm lengths for the long side, and 700 mm or 750 mm for the short end. Buy slightly oversized and cut to fit rather than ordering to exact size.

Acrylic panels are lightweight and water-resistant from the start. Timber and MDF panels look more solid but must be sealed properly, especially the cut ends, to prevent swelling from steam and splashes.

2. Remove the old panel

Old panels are often held in by clips along the bottom, a bead of silicone at the top, or a combination of both. Run a knife along the silicone joint first, then ease the panel away. Take care — if there is no access hatch cut in it, the pipework and trap behind the panel may be tighter than expected.

This is a good moment to check the state of the bath feet and frame, and to look for any drips or damp patches before fitting the new panel over them.

3. Fit the floor-level support strip or clips

Most panel systems come with a plastic or aluminium trim strip that fixes to the floor along the base of the bath frame. This supports the bottom edge of the panel and keeps it from bowing inward.

Mark the floor with a pencil, drill and plug if fixing into tiles or concrete, and screw the strip down level. A slight gap between the bottom of the panel and the floor is normal — it is the strip that does the holding, not the floor itself.

4. Cut the panel to length if needed

Mark the cut line in pencil, then score along it with a sharp knife before using a fine-tooth saw or jigsaw. Score the face of acrylic panels first to prevent the blade chipping the surface. For MDF, seal the cut end with waterproof paint or end-grain sealer before fitting.

Offer the panel up dry before final fitting to check the height and confirm it sits flush at both ends.

5. Clip or push the panel into position

Most acrylic panels simply press onto the floor strip at the bottom and tuck under a lip or clip at the top of the bath frame. The spring tension of the panel keeps it in place without screws.

For timber or MDF panels, fit the clips along the top edge of the bath frame first. Then hook the panel into the floor strip and press the top edge onto the clips. You should feel it click home. Check the face is flush with the bath rim above.

6. Check it is level and plumb

Step back and look along the face of the panel. If the bath is not perfectly level (and many are not), a gap at one end of the floor strip is common. Small gaps can be filled with silicone later. A large gap means the strip needs shimming up slightly before the panel goes back on.

Also check that the panel does not bow at the centre when you press it lightly. A noggings batten fixed to the wall or bath frame at mid-height cures a bowing panel.

7. Cut and fit an end panel if needed

If the short end of the bath is exposed, you need a separate end panel. These are sold individually. The fitting method is the same — support strip at the floor, clips at the top, trimmed to fit. Mitre or butt the corner joint between the side and end panels neatly.

For painted MDF panels, prime the cut ends and give them a coat of bathroom paint before fitting. They live in a humid environment and will swell quickly if left raw.

8. Seal the top edge with silicone

Run a bead of white sanitary silicone along the joint between the panel top and the bath rim. Smooth it with a damp finger or sealant tool. This is the joint that gets wet first and the one that matters most — a good seal here keeps water out of the frame and floor below.

Leave the silicone to cure for at least 24 hours before running the bath. Most silicone is touch-dry in an hour but fully waterproof after a day.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the bath frame is rotten or poorly supported, if the pipework is leaking and needs attention before the panel goes back on, or if the gap between the bath and the wall needs re-siliconing at the same time. A new panel over a dodgy frame is a short-term fix at best.