How to build a kitchen island

Inspired by the Wickes kitchen island guide. This article draws on the approach shown in "How to Build a Kitchen Island with Wickes" - a clear, practical tutorial from Wickes covering the full build process from unit assembly through to worktop fitting and finishing. A solid starting point whether you are using flat-pack base units or a bespoke build.

1. Work out how much space you actually have

The general rule is at least 900mm of clear floor between the island and any wall or run of units - 1,000mm if you want to open an oven door or dishwasher at the same time. Measure the room and mark out the island footprint with masking tape on the floor before you order anything.

Think about which direction you want the island to face. If you are adding a breakfast bar overhang, that side needs the most clearance. If you are planning to include a hob, gas or electrical connections will need to be planned from the start.

2. Decide on the construction method

The simplest approach is to join standard flat-pack base units back-to-back or side by side, then skin the visible faces with matching panels. This uses the same cabinets as the rest of your kitchen and keeps costs down.

A fully bespoke island - built from timber framing and clad in MDF or solid wood - gives you more freedom with shape and height, but takes longer and costs more. For most kitchens, the flat-pack method is the practical choice. To be fair, the results are hard to tell apart once the panels and worktop are on.

3. Assemble and join the base units

Assemble each carcass on the floor following the manufacturer's instructions. Once you have two or more units, clamp them together, check the tops are perfectly flush with a straightedge, and connect them using cabinet-joining bolts - usually a pair at the top and a pair at the bottom.

Keep the fronts of the units in line with each other. A small misalignment here will be visible when the doors go on. Take the time now; you cannot fix it easily once the worktop is down.

4. Level the units on the floor

Kitchens rarely have perfectly level floors. Use adjustable legs - most flat-pack base units have them built in - and a long spirit level to get the island top completely flat. Check across the width, along the length, and diagonally.

On a hard floor, you may need to pack under individual legs with thin shims if the adjustment range runs out. On a very uneven floor, consider a thin screed or self-levelling compound in that area before installing the island. It saves a lot of frustration later.

5. Fit the worktop

Measure the worktop opening carefully, including any overhang you want on the seating side. For a breakfast bar overhang, 250–300mm is comfortable for bar stools. Cut the worktop to length with a circular saw and a fine-tooth blade, cutting from the underside to avoid splintering the face.

Fit the worktop using the fixing blocks that come with the units. Do not glue it directly - worktops expand and contract with changes in humidity, and a rigid bond will cause it to crack over time. The blocks allow slight movement while keeping everything secure.

6. Fit end panels and plinth

End panels cover the exposed sides of the carcasses and make the island look like a piece of furniture rather than a collection of boxes. They are cut from matching kitchen panel material and fixed with small panel pins or a fitting clip system, depending on the brand.

The plinth runs along the bottom, hiding the legs. Cut it to length, clip it onto the leg brackets, and mitre the corners for a neat finish. Mind you - measure twice on those mitre cuts. It is easy to cut the wrong angle if you are rushing.

7. Hang the doors and drawers

Fit the hinges and hang the doors, then spend time adjusting them so the gaps are even. Most concealed hinges have three planes of adjustment: height, depth, and side to side. Use a screwdriver, not a drill - the fine adjustments are only a fraction of a turn at a time.

If you are fitting drawers, check each one runs smoothly and the front sits flush with its neighbours. Undermount runners in particular need their vertical adjustment dialling in to get the drawer front sitting at exactly the right height.

8. Seal the worktop edges and add handles

Any exposed worktop edges need an iron-on edging strip or a solid timber lipping, depending on your worktop type. Laminate edges burn quickly if left unprotected and look unfinished. An iron and a roller gives a clean bond.

Fit handles at a consistent height across all doors and drawer fronts. Use a simple jig - a scrap of wood with a hole drilled at the right position - to keep them all in exactly the same place without measuring each one individually.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the floor is very uneven, you want to include a hob or sink (which needs a plumber and possibly an electrician), or the island needs to be fixed down to stop it shifting. Getting the levels spot-on and the joints tight is the part most people find frustrating - that is exactly where it is worth having help.