How to replace a uPVC door handle

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This walk-through draws on the popular UK video “How to Change a Door Handle (uPVC door in just 5 mins)” from Everest Home Improvements, which does a clean job of showing exactly where to measure and what to look for when buying a replacement. Particularly useful if you are not sure whether your door has a 92 mm or a different PZ (fixing centres) measurement.

1. Measure the spindle and fixing centres

Before ordering a new handle, you need three measurements. The spindle size is the square bar that passes through the door connecting the inside and outside handles — it is almost always 8 mm on UK doors. The fixing centres (PZ measurement) is the distance between the two screw holes on the handle backplate — 92 mm is the most common, though 122 mm and other sizes exist.

Also measure the backset — the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the spindle hole. This helps if you also need to replace the multipoint lock mechanism, though for a handle swap alone the backset is less critical.

2. Check the handle style

Most uPVC door handles are lever-lever (lever on both inside and outside) or lever-pad (lever on the outside, a fixed pad on the inside). Check what you currently have before ordering, as the two types are not interchangeable.

Colour matters too. White, gold, chrome, and black are the common options. Take a photo of the old handle if you want to match it exactly, or use this as an opportunity to update the look of the door.

3. Remove the screw cover caps

On most uPVC handles there are two small plastic cover caps hiding the fixing screws. These usually prise off with a flat-head screwdriver or a small coin. Go gently — they can crack if you rush.

Once the caps are off, the screws are visible. They are almost always crosshead (Pozidrive), so have a PZ2 screwdriver to hand.

4. Unscrew the old handle

Undo both screws and pull the outer handle away from the door. On the inside, the inner handle should come away at the same time as the spindle pulls through. If it does not, check whether there is a small grub screw on the inside handle — some designs hold the two handles separately.

Keep the old screws to check the thread size against the new handle’s screws. Some replacements come with their own fixings, but it is worth checking they match the holes in the door.

5. Fit the new handle

Feed the new spindle through the door, aligning the outer handle over the screw holes. Hold the outer handle in position, then bring the inner handle onto the spindle from the other side. Check both handles are correctly orientated — the lever should point downward when at rest on both sides.

Thread in both screws by hand first to make sure they catch properly, then tighten with the screwdriver. Firm is enough. Overtightening cracks the backplate or strips the screw holes in the door frame.

6. Clip the cover caps back on

Press the cover caps back over the screws until they click into place. Step back and check both handles sit flush and look straight.

On some handles, the caps need to be in exactly the right orientation to click home. A small twist while pressing usually does it.

7. Test the handle and lock operation

Open and close the door several times, testing the handle from both sides. Lift the handle to engage the multipoint locks, then insert the key and lock up fully. The handle should feel smooth, the latch should retract cleanly, and the key should turn without stiffness.

If the handle feels stiff, a tiny amount of light oil on the spindle where it enters the lock mechanism usually helps. Do not use WD-40 as a permanent fix — it evaporates quickly and leaves residue. A proper door lock lubricant lasts much longer.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the lock mechanism itself is faulty, the door is not closing properly, or the frame has dropped so the multipoint locks no longer line up. A handle swap is a five-minute job. Diagnosing a door that has dropped off its hinges is a different problem entirely.