How to plant a tree

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This walk-through draws on "How to plant a Tree" from the Woodland Trust channel. The Woodland Trust is the UK's largest woodland conservation charity and their guide is straightforward and honest about the details that actually make a difference — particularly on bare-root planting, which is how most UK garden trees are sold in autumn and winter.

1. Choose the right spot

Think about the tree's eventual size, not just how it looks now. A tree planted too close to a house, wall, or drain can cause serious problems over decades. Check the expected mature height and canopy spread before you commit to a position.

Consider shade, sun, soil conditions, and existing underground services. If there are any gas, electricity, or water pipes in the area, check with your utility providers before digging. A quick search of the garden with a cable avoidance tool is worth the hire cost for anything but shallow planting.

2. Choose the right tree for your soil and conditions

Clay soils, sandy soils, chalk, and loam all suit different species. A local nursery or garden centre will advise on what grows well in your area. In East Kent, many trees do well given the relatively dry climate, but anything needing consistently moist soil will struggle in a dry summer without help.

Bare-root trees are bought and planted during the dormant season, typically November to March. Container-grown trees can be planted any time of year but need more watering in warm weather. Bare-root is often cheaper and establishes just as well, if not better.

3. Dig the right hole

Dig a hole roughly two to three times the width of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball itself. This is important. Planting too deep buries the root flare — the slight thickening at the base of the trunk — which can rot the bark and kill the tree over several years.

Loosen the sides and base of the hole with a fork to help roots penetrate outwards. On heavy clay, do not glaze the sides by slicing with the spade — that creates a water-retaining pit that drowns the roots.

4. Prepare the root ball and place the tree

For bare-root trees, soak the roots in water for an hour before planting if they look dry. Trim any broken or very long roots cleanly with sharp secateurs. Fan the roots out naturally in the hole rather than bunching them.

For container-grown trees, gently tease out any roots that have begun to circle the pot. Circling roots that are left in place can girdle the trunk years later.

Hold the tree upright in the centre of the hole and check that the root flare will sit just at or slightly above ground level once backfilled.

5. Backfill and firm in

Fill the hole back in with the removed soil, mixing in a little compost if the soil is very poor. Do not add too much compost or the roots may stay in the enriched zone rather than spreading outward.

Firm the soil gently with your boot as you go to remove air pockets, but do not compact it hard. Finish with the soil level slightly above the surrounding ground so rainwater drains away from the stem rather than sitting against it.

6. Stake if needed and protect the stem

Small trees and bare-root whips rarely need staking. Larger trees in exposed positions may need a short stake at an angle, hammered in away from the root ball and tied with a proper tree tie — not rope or string that will cut into the bark. Check and loosen ties as the tree grows.

A spiral tree guard protects young bark from rabbits and deer. Worth fitting in rural gardens or anywhere with rabbit activity — they can ring a young tree completely in one night.

7. Water in and mulch

Water in thoroughly immediately after planting, even in wet weather. This helps settle the soil around the roots and removes air pockets. For the first two years, water during dry spells — a slow, deep soak once a week is better than frequent light watering.

Apply a layer of mulch — bark chippings or well-rotted compost — in a ring around the base, keeping it a few centimetres away from the trunk. This retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and feeds the soil as it breaks down.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard for general garden help, clearance, and tidying. For large tree work, surgery, or anything close to structures or services, a qualified arborist is the right person to contact.