How to mount a TV on a wall

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This guide draws on “How to Wall Mount a TV” by Craig Phillips, the UK TV presenter and DIY expert who has been demonstrating home improvement techniques to British audiences for many years. The video does a solid job of covering wall types and fixing choices, which is where most people either get it spot on or end up filling holes and starting again.

1. Choose the right bracket

TV wall brackets come in three main types: fixed (flat against the wall), tilting (angle up or down by a few degrees), and full-motion (swing out and rotate). Fixed brackets are the strongest and most compact. Full-motion brackets add flexibility but require heavier fixings because the arm creates leverage when extended.

Check the VESA pattern on the back of your TV before buying a bracket — it is four bolt holes arranged in a square, measured in millimetres. A 400×200 VESA pattern needs a bracket with matching 400×200 spacing. Most modern brackets cover a range of patterns, but it is worth confirming before you leave the shop.

2. Decide on height and position

The centre of the screen should ideally be at eye level when seated. For most UK living rooms with standard sofas, that is roughly 110 to 120 cm from the floor. That said, it is a personal preference — measure from your usual seat if you want to be precise.

Mark the desired centre point with a pencil cross. Then use a cable detector to check for hidden cables and pipes in the wall before drilling anywhere. This is not a step to skip.

3. Identify your wall type

In most UK homes, walls are either solid brick or block, or plasterboard on a timber stud frame. Tap the wall and listen: a solid thud suggests masonry, a hollow knock suggests plasterboard.

Solid masonry walls are the easier fix. Plasterboard walls need fixing into the timber studs behind — not just the board itself. A stud finder will locate the studs. If the bracket fixings cannot land on studs, use properly rated toggle bolts designed for plasterboard, or fit a horizontal batten across two studs first.

4. Fix the wall plate

Hold the wall plate up to the wall and use a spirit level to get it perfectly horizontal. Mark all the fixing hole positions in pencil, then set the plate aside. For masonry, use a 6 mm or 8 mm masonry drill bit and appropriate wall plugs. For timber studs, use 60 mm wood screws that reach well into the stud.

Drive the screws in firmly but do not overtighten into wall plugs — strip the plug and you have to start over with a larger fixing. Once the plate is up, give it a firm tug to check it does not flex. It should feel completely solid.

5. Attach the mounting plate to the TV

Lay the TV face-down on a clean, soft surface. The VESA bolt holes are usually covered with a sticker or small plastic caps. Remove those and thread the supplied bolts through the bracket arms. Most brackets include spacers of different depths — use the ones that keep the arms flush and secure without stressing the TV chassis.

Tighten them snugly. The plate should not rock on the TV back at all. A loose plate that shifts will slowly work the bolts free over time.

6. Hang the TV and dress the cables

Lift the TV and engage the mounting arms onto the wall plate. Most brackets have a locking hook or bar that drops into place and can be secured with a small bolt or pin. Check it is fully engaged before letting go.

Route cables neatly. Clip-on cable conduit or a shallow chase in the plaster keeps things tidy. If you want a truly clean installation with no visible cables, a surface-mounted trunking channel painted to match the wall is a good compromise that avoids chasing out the plaster.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the wall is dot-and-dab (plasterboard bonded to masonry with adhesive blobs — common in newer builds), if the bracket is very large and heavy, or if you are not confident about the wall type. Getting the fixings wrong on a 65-inch screen is a serious risk. Better to have it checked.