How to lay artificial grass

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This walkthrough is based on the MKM Building Supplies tutorial "How to Install Artificial Grass" from MKM, the UK’s largest independent builders’ merchant. The video covers the full process from ground clearance through to the finished surface, and is particularly clear on the importance of getting a solid, well-compacted sub-base before the grass goes down.

1. Clear and excavate the area

Remove existing turf, plants, and topsoil to a depth of around 75–100mm. The exact depth depends on your chosen sub-base depth plus the thickness of the artificial grass itself — check the manufacturer’s specification.

Take the excavation right to the edges of the area, including against walls, fences, and edging. If tree roots are present, cut them back as far as you can. Roots that grow back under artificial grass cause rippling and pooling further down the line.

2. Lay a type 1 sub-base and compact it

Spread a layer of MOT type 1 crushed stone or limestone to a depth of 50–75mm across the whole area. This provides the drainage and structural base for everything above it. Do not use sharp sand alone at this stage — it shifts and compacts unevenly over time.

Compact the sub-base with a wacker plate or hand tamper, working in sections. Check it is level as you go using a spirit level or long straight edge. A slight fall toward the edges or a drain helps water run off rather than pool under the grass.

3. Add a sharp sand layer

Add a 10–15mm layer of sharp sand on top of the compacted sub-base. This fills any remaining irregularities and gives a smooth, flat surface for the grass to lay on. Rake it level carefully and tamp it down again.

At this stage, run a long straight edge across the surface in multiple directions. Any bumps or dips will show through the finished grass surface, particularly in low-angle light. Now is the time to fix them, not after the grass is down.

4. Lay weed control membrane

Roll out a permeable weed control membrane over the entire prepared area. Overlap joins by at least 150mm and fix the membrane temporarily with ground pegs while you position it. This layer suppresses weed growth without blocking drainage — do not use an impermeable membrane, which would cause waterlogging.

Trim the membrane neatly to the edges. It should lap up slightly against walls or edging and be tucked under later.

5. Roll out the artificial grass

Unroll the artificial grass and leave it to relax for a couple of hours before cutting, especially in cold weather when the backing is stiff. Make sure the pile direction on all sections runs the same way — most artificial grass looks best with the pile facing toward the main viewpoint, usually toward the house.

Position the roll to minimise waste and allow a 50mm overhang on all edges for trimming. If you need more than one roll, position the join where it will be least visible — along a fence line rather than across the middle of the lawn.

6. Cut to shape and fix the edges

Trim the grass to the final shape using a sharp Stanley knife, cutting from the back. A straight, firm cut gives a much cleaner result than trying to cut through the pile from the top. Take your time on curves and around obstacles — once cut short, you cannot put it back.

Fix the perimeter using galvanised nails driven through the backing into a timber edge board, or use a bead of artificial grass adhesive along walls and hard edges. Where two rolls meet, apply joining tape and adhesive to the underside to create an invisible seam.

7. Brush in kiln-dried sand

Spread kiln-dried sand evenly across the surface — the manufacturer’s instructions will give the recommended quantity per square metre. Use a stiff brush or a borrowed carpet brush to work the sand down into the pile. The sand adds weight to keep the grass flat, helps the fibres stand upright, and improves drainage.

Once the sand is in, give the whole surface a final brush to lift the pile and remove any footprints or marks. It will settle further over the first few weeks.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the area is large, has a significant slope, needs a join between two rolls, or involves awkward edging against curved borders. Artificial grass looks great when it is properly tensioned and edged — and a visible wrinkle or a join that parts after a few months is expensive to fix after the fact.