How to hang wallpaper

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This walk-through draws on the step-by-step guide "How to hang wallpaper" from B&Q, the UK's largest DIY retailer. Their video covers both paste-the-wall and paste-the-paper methods clearly and is a good one to watch the evening before you start the job.

1. Prepare the walls thoroughly

New plaster needs a coat of size — diluted PVA or a dedicated size solution — before you hang anything. Previously painted walls need to be clean, dry, and free of loose paint. Fill any cracks or holes first and sand smooth.

Skipping the prep is the most common reason wallpaper bubbles or peels within a year. Take the time here and the finish lasts.

2. Measure and calculate the number of drops

Measure the height of the wall, add 10 cm for trimming (5 cm top and bottom), and that is your drop length. Divide the total wall width by the width of your chosen wallpaper to get the number of drops needed.

If the paper has a pattern repeat, check the repeat length on the label and add that to each drop to allow for matching. A large pattern repeat can use considerably more paper than you expect.

3. Find your starting line

Do not assume the corner of the room is vertical. Use a spirit level and a pencil to mark a true plumb line near where you will hang the first length. Most people start near a window wall or in a corner, working away from the main light source.

Getting the first length truly vertical is everything. The rest of the room hangs off it.

4. Mix the paste

Follow the packet instructions for mixing. Different wallpapers need different paste strengths — heavy vinyls need a thicker paste than lightweight papers. A paste that is too thin will not hold the paper on the wall long enough to adjust.

For paste-the-wall papers, apply paste directly to the wall with a roller or large brush. For traditional paste-the-paper, paste onto a pasting table and allow the paper to soak for the time specified on the roll.

5. Hang the first length

Fold the pasted paper loosely (paste to paste), carry it to the wall, and unfold the top section. Align it to your plumb line with a generous overlap at the ceiling. Smooth from the centre outwards and downwards using a wallpaper brush or smoothing tool, working out any air bubbles as you go.

Do not panic if it shifts slightly — pasted paper stays workable for a few minutes. Peel it back and re-hang if needed.

6. Trim at the ceiling and skirting

Run the back of your scissors along the join between wall and ceiling or skirting to crease the paper, then peel back slightly and cut along the crease. A sharp blade gives a cleaner edge than scissors for this bit.

Wipe any paste off the ceiling and skirting immediately with a damp sponge before it dries.

7. Butt join the next length

Line up the edge of the second length right against — not overlapping — the first. Match any pattern at eye level. A seam roller along the join helps the edges lie flat and bond to the wall.

Keep checking that lengths are plumb as you go. Walls are rarely perfectly square, and small drift accumulates over a full room.

8. Work around obstacles

Light switches: turn off the power, loosen the face plate, hang the paper over the fitting, and press gently to find the centre. Cut an X from the centre to the corners of the fitting, trim the flaps, and push them behind the plate before screwing it back. Neat, safe, done.

Corners: always start a fresh plumb line on the new wall rather than carrying the pattern around the corner. Corners are rarely square enough to trust.

When to call a handyman

Richard can help with wallpapering if the job is getting away from you. Stairwells, feature walls, and rooms with a lot of obstacles are all jobs where an extra pair of hands — or someone to hold the top of a long drop — makes a real difference.