How to grow pumpkins

Inspired by expert advice from the Royal Horticultural Society. This guide draws on the RHS "No nonsense advice on how to grow pumpkins" video, which cuts straight to the practical decisions - variety choice, sowing timing, and how to get decent fruit in a British summer. Worth watching for their section on feeding, which is often the step people skip.

1. Choose the right variety

Not all pumpkins suit a UK climate. Smaller varieties like Crown Prince, Uchiki Kuri (also sold as Red Kuri or Onion Squash), and Hundredweight reliably ripen even in a cool summer. Giant exhibition varieties are fun but need a long, warm season - they're more of a gamble.

Atlantic Giant and similar competition types are best avoided unless you have a polytunnel and a lot of time to dedicate to them. For most gardens, a mid-sized culinary variety is the sensible call.

2. Sow seeds indoors in late April

Pumpkins need a long growing season but hate frost. Sow seeds indoors in 9 cm pots in late April, pushing each seed in on its side about 2 cm deep. This stops water pooling in the seed's hollow and rotting it.

Keep the pots somewhere warm - 18–20°C is ideal. A windowsill above a radiator or a propagator both work. Germination is usually quick: five to ten days.

3. Pot on as seedlings grow

Once seedlings have their first true leaves, move them into a larger pot and keep them in a light, frost-free spot. A greenhouse or conservatory is ideal. Don't rush them outside - even a cold night at this stage sets them back significantly.

Harden off gradually from mid-May by putting them outside during the day and bringing them in at night. Do this for a couple of weeks before planting out.

4. Plant out after the last frost

In Kent, the last frost risk is usually past by the end of May. Plant into well-prepared ground, ideally with a generous amount of garden compost or well-rotted manure dug in. Pumpkins are hungry plants and the richer the soil, the better.

Space plants at least 90 cm apart - more if you can manage it. They spread far. One or two plants are usually more than enough for a family.

5. Water heavily and feed weekly

Pumpkins need consistent moisture. In dry spells, water at the base of the plant rather than overhead, and do it deeply rather than little and often. A wilting plant on a hot afternoon is normal; one that hasn't recovered by the next morning needs water.

Once the first female flowers appear (the ones with a small swelling behind the petals), start feeding with a high-potassium liquid feed every week. Tomato feed works perfectly well.

6. Pollinate by hand if needed

Pumpkins produce separate male and female flowers on the same plant. If fruit isn't setting, bees may not be visiting often enough. Use a small paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower (no swelling behind it) to the centre of a female flower. Do it in the morning when pollen is fresh.

In good weather with plenty of pollinators around, this usually isn't necessary. But in a wet or cool summer, it can make the difference between one fruit and none.

7. Harvest before the first autumn frost

Pumpkins are ready when their skins have hardened and resist a thumbnail pressed into them, and when the stem begins to dry and cork over. Cut with a few inches of stem attached - this helps the fruit keep longer.

Don't leave them on the soil once they've matured. Lift them onto a piece of wood or a tile to protect the skin, and harvest everything before the first frost, typically in October.

8. Cure the skins before storing

After harvest, leave pumpkins in a sunny spot or a warm room for ten to fourteen days. This hardens the skin further and dramatically extends storage life. A well-cured pumpkin in a cool, dry room can last until February or beyond.

Don't store them in a shed that gets damp or drops below freezing. A spare bedroom or a dry utility room is ideal.

When to call a handyman

Pumpkins are one of the more straightforward crops to grow. That said, if the veg patch needs digging over and improving before planting - breaking up compacted ground, improving drainage, or adding raised beds - Richard can sort it far faster than most people working at the weekend. Garden preparation is exactly the kind of physical work that takes hours to do properly and barely an afternoon if you know what you're doing.