Plumbing repair guide

How to fix a dripping tap

A dripping tap wastes more water than most people expect and has a way of getting louder at night. In most cases the fix is a new tap washer, costs almost nothing, and takes about twenty minutes with basic tools.

Inspired by a helpful YouTube guide. This walk-through is based on the "How to reseat a dripping tap" video from Plumberparts, a UK plumbing tutorial channel. The video is particularly useful because it covers both the basic washer change and the reseating step that many guides skip — which is exactly the fix you need when a new washer alone does not stop the drip.

1. Identify the tap type and where the drip is coming from

Traditional pillar taps and older mixer taps use rubber washers, and these are by far the most common cause of a drip from the spout. A drip from around the tap spindle or handle instead suggests a worn O-ring, which is a slightly different repair.

Modern ceramic-disc taps work differently and rarely use washers. If your taps have quarter-turn handles, they probably have ceramic cartridges rather than traditional washers, and the fix is swapping the cartridge rather than replacing a rubber washer.

2. Turn off the water supply to the tap

Look under the sink or basin for the isolation valves — small slotted valves on the hot and cold supply pipes. Turn them clockwise with a flat-head screwdriver until the slot sits at ninety degrees to the pipe. That closes them off.

If there are no isolation valves under the sink, you will need to turn off the water at the mains stopcock, usually found under the kitchen sink or where the supply enters the house. Turn it clockwise to close it.

3. Open the tap to release pressure

Turn the dripping tap on fully and let any remaining water drain away. This releases the pressure in the pipe and makes dismantling the tap much easier and less messy.

Put the plug in the basin or put a cloth over the plughole. It is easy to drop small parts — screws, O-rings, the washer itself — and having the plug in stops them disappearing down the drain.

4. Remove the tap handle and spindle

Prise off the decorative cap on top of the tap (if there is one) to find the retaining screw underneath. Undo the screw, lift the handle off, then use a spanner or adjustable wrench to unscrew the headgear — the brass nut that holds the whole mechanism in the tap body.

The washer is at the bottom of the spindle, held in place by a small brass nut or just pushed onto a peg. Remove the old washer and take it with you to the DIY shop to match the size exactly. A slightly wrong size will still drip.

5. Fit the new washer

Push the new washer firmly onto the jumper peg or re-secure the brass nut if there is one. It should sit flat and centred. Give the spindle a quick look while you have it out — if the thread is damaged or the O-rings look perished, replace those at the same time.

That said, if the metal seat inside the tap body looks pitted, rough, or scored, a new washer may not seal properly against it. This is when reseating is needed. A tap reseating tool is inexpensive and grinds the seat back to a smooth surface — the video above covers this step clearly.

6. Reassemble, turn the water back on, and test

Screw the headgear back in firmly but not brutally, refit the handle, and replace the cover cap. Turn the isolation valve back on slowly and then gently run the tap to check the repair. The spout should stop dripping when the tap is closed.

If there is a small drip from around the spindle rather than from the spout, the O-ring may need replacing. These are usually a few pence from a plumber's merchant and come in standard sizes. Replace them the same way as the washer — tap off, spindle out, swap the ring, rebuild.

7. If it still drips, the seat may need reseating

A brand-new washer pressing against a roughened or pitted metal seat inside the tap body will still leak. Reseating the tap means using a hand tool to smooth the seat back to a clean, flat surface. It is a straightforward job once you have the tool, which costs around five to ten pounds.

If the seat is very badly damaged, or the tap body itself is cracked, a full tap replacement may be more sensible. Older taps sometimes reach the point where repairs cost more in time than a new tap does in money.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the isolation valves are seized, the stopcock will not turn, the tap body is damaged, or you have tried a new washer and the drip persists. The Sandwich Handyman can help with tap repairs, washer replacements, and small plumbing jobs around the home in Sandwich and across East Kent.

Need a dripping tap sorted in Sandwich?

The Sandwich Handyman can replace tap washers, fit isolation valves, and carry out small plumbing repairs around the home.

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