How to build railway sleeper steps

A well-made UK guide to railway sleeper steps. This video walks through the full process from digging out each shelf to pinning the sleepers in place — clear on the tricky bits like getting the first step perfectly level and keeping each course consistent as you work up the slope.

1. Calculate the rise and number of steps

Measure the total height change from bottom to top of the slope. Each step needs a comfortable rise — 150 mm to 175 mm is the standard for garden steps. Divide the total height by your chosen rise to get the number of steps.

A standard new oak sleeper is 200 mm deep, so it sits slightly proud of the tread surface, which looks good and gives a natural edge. Reclaimed sleepers vary, so measure yours before committing to the design.

2. Mark out and cut the sleepers

Most sleepers come in 2.4 m lengths. Decide on the width of your steps — anything from 900 mm to the full 2.4 m works, depending on the site. Cut to length with a good quality circular saw or a chainsaw if you have one.

Wear eye and ear protection. Reclaimed sleepers sometimes contain old nails or metal fixings that can damage a blade or throw sparks. Check carefully before cutting.

3. Excavate each step shelf

Starting from the bottom, dig out a flat shelf for each step as you work up the slope. Each shelf needs to be level side to side and tilted very slightly back — about 10 to 15 mm — to stop rainwater pooling on the tread.

Remove the topsoil completely and get down to firm subsoil. A wobbling first step will cause problems for every step above it.

4. Lay a hardcore sub-base

Spread 75 to 100 mm of compacted hardcore or MOT Type 1 on each shelf before the sleeper goes down. This prevents sinking and keeps the steps firm through winter frosts. Compact it with a hand rammer or a plate compactor if you can borrow one.

For heavy clay soils like much of Kent, this sub-base layer makes a real difference over time. Skip it and the steps will gradually settle unevenly.

5. Set the first sleeper level

This is the most important step in the whole project. The first sleeper sets the reference for everything above it. Lay it on the compacted hardcore and check with a spirit level in both directions — side to side and front to back. Adjust by removing or adding hardcore underneath until it sits exactly right.

Take your time here. Genuinely. A minute of careful levelling now saves an hour of correcting later.

6. Pin the sleepers with rebar

Once each sleeper is level, drive 500 mm lengths of 16 mm rebar through pre-drilled holes near each end of the sleeper and down into the ground beneath. This locks the sleeper in place and prevents it shifting over time.

Drill the holes with a large-diameter wood bit before positioning the sleeper — it's much harder once it's in the ground. Drive the rebar with a club hammer until the top is just below the surface of the sleeper.

7. Build up the remaining steps

Repeat the excavate-compact-level-pin process for each step working up the slope. The back of each sleeper butts up against the face of the sleeper above, so the steps naturally support each other as you go.

Keep checking that the treads have that slight backward tilt. It's easy to get absorbed in levelling side to side and forget to check the front-to-back pitch.

8. Finish the treads

Fill any gaps behind the sleepers with compacted soil or hardcore. The tread surface itself can be left as bare sleeper, or topped with gravel, Indian sandstone, or slate pieces for extra grip and a more polished look.

Consider adding outdoor lighting along the risers for evening use — low-voltage spike lights work well and can be wired in later if you leave a conduit run now.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if the slope is steep, the ground is very soft or unstable, or you need steps cut into a retaining wall. Steep sites can involve significant earthworks and may need engineering judgement on drainage. A flight of seven or more steps is also well into two-person territory for moving and placing the sleepers safely.