How to build a workbench

Video by Tommy's Yard. This walk-through is based on the video "Tommy's Trade Secrets - How to Build a Workbench" from Tommy's Yard, which covers cutting and assembling a basic but robust timber workbench from scratch. Good to watch before you start cutting any timber, particularly for the jointing sections.

1. Plan your dimensions and gather materials

Standard workbench height is around 850–900 mm, which suits most adults working standing up. If you are particularly tall, add 50 mm; shorter, take a bit off. The width depends on your garage or shed, but 600 mm deep is a comfortable working surface without making it hard to reach the back. Length is really whatever fits your wall.

For a basic bench you will need 75×50 mm (or 3×2 in old money) CLS timber for the frame, 18 mm OSB or ply for the shelf and top, and 75×75 mm or 100×50 mm for the legs. Structural screws — 100 mm and 75 mm — will do most of the fastening. Mind you, if you want the top to last under heavy use, a sheet of 18 mm hardwood ply is worth the extra outlay over OSB.

2. Cut the legs and frame members

Cut your four legs to the same length. A mitre saw makes this quick and accurate; a hand saw will work but take extra care to keep cuts square — any twist here will make the whole bench rock. Mark the legs before cutting so you know which face is which, especially if you are using timber that has a slight bow to it.

Cut the front and back rails to your bench length, and the side rails to your chosen depth minus the leg thickness on each side (two leg widths, in other words). Label everything as you go. It is a small thing, but having a pile of unlabelled timber off the same saw is the surest route to fitting the wrong piece in the wrong place.

3. Assemble the two end frames

Build the two end frames first, each consisting of two legs and two horizontal rails — one at bench height, one lower down for the shelf. Clamp the legs to the rails, check for square by measuring diagonally corner to corner (both measurements should be equal), and then drive your structural screws in. Pre-drill to avoid splitting the timber.

Lay the end frames flat to assemble them — it is much easier than trying to hold everything upright. Once both end frames are done and square, stand them up and check they sit flat on the floor. If one leg rocks, plane or shim it until it is stable before going any further.

4. Join the end frames with the long rails

With the two end frames standing, connect them with the front and back rails at both the top and shelf levels. Again, clamp before screwing, and check for square as you go. At this point the frame should feel solid — give it a shake. If it has any noticeable rack or twist, add a diagonal brace across the back, which is good practice on a long bench anyway.

If the bench is going against a wall, you can screw the back rail into wall studs or plugged masonry for extra rigidity. Most garage walls in older Kent houses are either cavity block or bare brick, so use suitable wall anchors and check you are not going through any hidden services first. To be fair, screwing into a solid wall makes a workbench feel almost immovable, which is exactly what you want.

5. Fix the lower shelf

Cut a sheet of 18 mm OSB or ply to fit across the lower rails and screw it down. The shelf takes a surprising amount of weight — it always ends up holding heavy tools, paint tins, and all the things that should probably be somewhere else — so do not underestimate it. Fix it to every rail it crosses, not just the ends.

If the shelf is a large span (more than about 900 mm between supports), consider adding a mid-rail under the centre to stop it flexing over time. A length of 75×50 mm screwed between the front and back rails at the midpoint costs next to nothing and makes the shelf noticeably stiffer.

6. Fit the worktop

Cut your worktop to size and lay it across the top frame. Screw it down from below through the top rails so the surface stays clean and unobstructed. Space screws at roughly 300 mm intervals. Check the top is flush with a long level and plane any high spots on the frame before you fix the sheet down permanently.

Once fixed, the bench top can be finished with hardwearing floor paint, a coat of linseed oil, or left bare — it depends on how you plan to use it. A painted surface is easier to keep clean; bare timber takes abuse without complaint. Either way, it is worth fitting a strip of 50×25 mm timber along the front edge as a lip to stop round things rolling off the bench onto your feet.

When to call a handyman

Call Richard if you want a workbench built to a specific size — perhaps to fit around a boiler, incorporate a vice, or match an existing setup in a garage or outbuilding. It is also the sort of job that is straightforward to hand off if you are short on time or do not have the tools to cut timber accurately. He works across Sandwich, Deal, and the surrounding villages, and this kind of practical workshop joinery is right in his wheelhouse.